Be cool. Cool climate Shiraz

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Find your favourite Cool Climate Shiraz

Check out some of the best cool climate shiraz on offer. Try for yourself!

Words Mark Hughes
Published Winter 12

My father-in-law, Neville, is your typical knock-about Aussie bloke. A former brickie, he used to drive his Holden Kingswood ute to work and cruise the weekends in his white Torana LJ Sedan. He loves fishing, hunting and knocking back a couple of Tooheys New while charring some animal flesh on the barbecue. 

But since his retirement a few years ago things have changed. He mostly spends his time drawing the jack rather than mixing the mortar, he has a flashy new Korean-built SUV to tow his caravan and he’s pretty much swapped the beers for red wine. 

When he started drinking vino his preferred drop was the big fruit-driven reds from South Australia: juicy, plummy, peppery and pretty big on the alcohol – perfect for his medium rare steak and snags. 

Recently though, his palate seems to have matured and he asked me for a red with more elegance. I gave him a gorgeous Yarra Valley Pinot, but it wasn’t for him. “Tastes a bit posh,” he said. “A bit too watery.” Maybe I had aimed a bit high.

He enjoyed the ‘Temper Lilo’ and ‘Sangy o easy’ I selected for him, especially with my tapas spreads and home-made pizza. But what really caught his attention was a medium-bodied Shiraz from the Canberra District. 

“Now this is pretty good,” he said, while putting on his glasses to read the label – always a positive sign. I didn’t get to have any more of that wine after he had poured another one for himself and his wife, and my wife, and one more for himself.  

Now, I’ve never really thought of Nev as a trend-setter. He’s happiest in t-shirt, shorts and those sandals with Velcro tabs, but apparently when it comes to Shiraz, he’s in fashion! Neville is part of a shift in the drinking public that is looking for more restraint and elegance in Australia’s most iconic red wine.

If the drinking public was thinking it, the critics confirmed it when in 2009, the judges at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show awarded the Jimmy Watson Trophy for the best young red wine in the country to a wine from the Canberra District: the Eden Road Wines ‘Long Road’ Hilltops Shiraz 2008. It made the wine world sit up and take notice. 

Just to confirm this trend, this year’s Jimmy Watson winner was the Glaetzer-Dixon Mon Pere Shiraz 2010 from Tasmania. 

A Shiraz from Tasmania? It was unfathomable. The Jimmy Watson is an award that has almost exclusively gone to the Barossa or McLaren Vale or maybe the Hunter, but not the Canberra District and certainly not Tasmania!

Apparently it is not just a trend that is happening here in Australia. At the 2011 International Wine Challenge in London, Adelaide Hills winery Bird in Hand was awarded the trophy for the Best Australian Red Wine and the Best Australian Shiraz. 

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What is cool?

The common thread between all these award-winning wines is that they come from cool climate regions. There was something here that definitely needed investigating, so we thought we should do a State of Play tasting on cool climate Shiraz.

First of all we had to define what a cool climate is as it is a phrase that is bandied about with almost gay abandon with little regard for the official meaning. 

Perhaps the strongest definition comes from the International Cool Climate Wine Show. This annual event began in the Mornington Peninsula and has been running since the year 2000, so it has some pedigree. It defines cool climate wines as: Wines made from grapes grown either: south of latitude 37.5 degrees south, or north of latitude 37.5 degrees north or from a property in the Southern or Northern hemisphere which has an average January/July (whichever is applicable) temperature below 19ºCelsius, as confirmed by the nearest Bureau of Meterology site, or vineyard site above 800m in altitude.

Therefore Australian wine regions that automatically qualify as cool climate are: Tasmania, the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, and Western Australia’s Great Southern region. Then there are a few grey areas.

According to these criteria, the Adelaide Hills does not qualify as cool climate. Its elevation and latitude are well off and its average temperature in January is 19.1. However, most would agree that it is cool climate, and for the sake of point one of a degree, one must admit that this really does qualify as cool climate. Likewise the Canberra region and Orange in New South Wales should also be considered cool climate. There are some vineyards in these regions above 800 metres, but their average January temperature is around the 20 degree mark. But I challenge anyone to stand out in a vineyard on the slopes of Mount Canobolas in the middle of winter and dispute whether it is a cool climate. 

Therefore some of the parameters, especially in Australia, still need to be defined. A recent cool climate wine show in Tasmania had the elevations at 500 metres, which seems more logical and perhaps we need to look at a combination of average temperatures across the whole year. 

However the upshot is: regions where Australian Shiraz has an outstanding pedigree, i.e., Barossa, McLaren Vale and the Hunter Valley, are not cool climate regions.

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All that jazz

It is perhaps the amazing success of Shiraz from these warmer regions that has hampered the progress of cool climate Shiraz. Winemakers in cool climates convinced themselves it would be pointless to pursue Shiraz as the Barossa, McLaren Vale and Hunter were already delivering outstanding wines custom-made for the tastes of the drinking public.

Scott McCarthy, winemaker at Helen’s Hill in the Yarra Valley, echoed these sentiments when he joined our Tasting Panel for this tasting, but added that things have changed.

“In the past, for us, the focus has been on Pinot and Chardonnay and looking for the best places to plant those,” he said. “Shiraz has always been there as a good workhorse to produce good wines, but no-one has really given it the same attention as they have some of the other varieties.

“But now we are looking at clones and root stocks and looking at actually planting it in the best part of the vineyard, not just the part that is left over from Pinot and Chardonnay.”

Scott is well credentialed to be the spokesperson for cool climate winemakers. He grew up in a vineyard and spent his first 10 years as a winemaker in the Barossa before experiencing vintages in the Napa and France (Loire Valley and Languedoc). During a four-vintage stint in Marlborough, New Zealand, Scott fell in love with cool climate winemaking and he continued that affair by settling back in Australia in the Yarra, where he makes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Shiraz. 

While winemakers like Scott are convinced of the future of cool climate Shiraz, critics have traditionally been sceptical. The purveying perception of Shiraz from these regions was of a wine that was green, stalky and under-ripe. That may have been somewhat true a decade ago, but as Scott explains, a better understanding of Shiraz in the vineyard, and in the winery, has allowed cool climate Shiraz to be far more expressive.

“My experience in the Yarra is that Shiraz is one variety that is made in the vineyard and probably the biggest decision that has to be made that influences the outcome of the wine is the day that you pick it.

“I believe there is only a day or two between really getting out of that green phase and when it is starting to get over-ripe. You have to work with the vineyards and taste the fruit over a period of time to know how each block is going to react, how quickly they ripen and when is the best time to pick each block,” Scott says, while also stressing the attention to detail that must be given to micro-climates, even in the same vineyard.

“Instead of testing the whole vineyard as one block of Shiraz we have isolated different aspects. We know the cool, low-lying areas are going to ripen a little bit later and we make sure that we test them independently.

“You used to go out and pick your whole vineyard. Now it is literally one side of the hill to the other and we are talking a distance of just 50 metres and we will pick a week, two weeks later in some cases, just because the aspects are quite different.

“We want to get it through that green spectrum – so we are looking for that tomato leaf character to go out of the juice and to get a ripe spectrum with those nice blueberry characters.” 

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The tasting

The Panel sat down to 40-odd wines from across a dozen cool climate regions. The results were outstanding. Nearly all the wines medalled and the overall scoring was very high with the average score in the high 16s, which is well over that of most State of Play tastings. 

Importantly, the tasting confirmed that these wines had busted the perception of having ‘green and stalky characters’. The key descriptors that came forth were of punchy red fruits and blueberry flavours, some spiciness and pepperiness as well as minerality and earthiness. 

Furthermore there was a noticeable shift to a more graceful style of Shiraz. While most were medium-bodied, some were full-bodied and fruit-driven, but with an elegant core, great balance and an alcohol content of around 14 per cent.  

“Some of the traditional descriptors you look for in Shiraz – those big ripe plummy characters, strong tannins and big vanillin oak – they were not in the wines we looked at today,” commented Scott. “We were using descriptors like oyster shell, cassis and minerality; descriptors that lend themselves to be able to match to food.”

Christian Gaffey, head of the product department at Wine Selectors, was equally impressed with the elegance displayed across these wines in the tasting. 

“There was one wine today that was described as ‘Burgundy-like’, which for Shiraz is somewhat unheard of,” he said. “Not that Burgundy is the be all and end all, but for it to be compared to a wine of finesse like a Pinot Noir versus your classic 15 per cent Shiraz, means a lot, especially if you want to match it to food.”

Regionality and diversity

The top 20 scoring wines contained a great spread of wines from different regions. Five were from the Yarra, four from Adelaide Hills, three each from the Canberra District and Mornington Peninsula, two from West Australia’s Great Southern region, one each from Great Western, the Grampians and Tasmania. 

Within those wines there was an amazing diversity. While wines from certain regions had similar benchmark characters, each wine had its own life and there were amazing differences between wines from the same region, from vineyards within a stone’s throw from each other. 

“It really is a celebration of the differences you can get with cool climate Shiraz,” remarked Scott.

“I think the biggest thing with cool climate Shiraz is the ability to show the terroir – the sense of place with the wines, which you don’t always see in some of the warmer climates.”

Combined with a sense of grace and elegance, it is this diversity in the wines that suggests that cool climate Shiraz is a great food-matching wine. The Shiraz from the Yarra versus Mornington and Pyrenees are all very different so they should lend themselves to a greater variety of food than classic Aussie Shiraz matched with steak.

Aging potential and the future

Perhaps the most surprising result to come out of this tasting was the superb natural acid balance these wines displayed. This acid lends itself to the minerality character displayed in these wines and, more importantly, suggests superb aging potential. This was confirmed by the fact that towards the end of the tasting the Panel was giving very high marks to all the wines that had a bit of age to them. If that is any indication of what is going to happen over time, then in 10 years time we are going to have some sensational back stocks of cool climate Shiraz.

Furthermore, the wine that had the most acid was from Tasmania, which suggests the cooler the climate, the better. 

“Tassie is going to be a tough place to grow Shiraz consistently,” remarked Christian. “But we have known through the years that sometimes it is the inconsistent places that produce the best wines in the good years.” 

Finally, as cool climate Shiraz is a fairly recent endeavour, most of the wines are from vines with an average age of 15 years or younger. We know that generally the older Shiraz vines get, the better the fruit they produce. These vines are still in their teenage years, so as they mature we can expect to see some world-beating examples of cool climate Australian Shiraz. 

I can hear Neville firing up the barbie now.

Tasting Notes

Train Trak Shiraz 2006 (Yarra Valley)
Dense brick red in the glass, this Yarra Valley standout has a beautiful nose with developing secondary aromas of cedar, cigar box and iodine. The wonderful more-ish palate is soft, plush and layered. It’s developing well yet still retains a rich core of fruit and terrific acidity, notes of ripe tomato and sandalwood with seamless balance and length.

Xabregas Shiraz 2010 (Mount Barker)
Medium purple colour. Vibrant, lifted nose with cherry berry, peppery spice, vanilla and earth. Rich and savoury with an excellent structure and acidity. The palate is vibrant with a slatey minerality, spicy tannins and seamless length. Excellent all-round appeal.

Mount Majura Vineyard Shiraz 2009 (Canberra District)
A wonderful example of cool climate Shiraz. Ripe red fruits on the nose, full bodied with nicely integrated oak, great balance and texture with spicy cassis development and great natural acidity. 

Foxeys Hangout Wine Co. Shiraz 2010 (Mornington Peninsula)
Intoxicating and elegant savoury stewed rhubarb character with a seamless palate. This Victorian scored top marks for line and length with an elegant mouthfeel and beautifully integrated tannins. 

Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier 2010 (Canberra District)
The Panel thought this was just a terrific wine with one remark calling it the best of Rhône crossed with Burgundy. Elegant with  power and delightful spice character, very nicely balanced, good texture, good flavour and delightful natural acidity.

Chain of Ponds The Ledge Shiraz 2006 (Adelaide Hills)
Dark red with a touch of brick. Sweet, inky blueberry, cassis and cedar on the nose. Dense, slightly chewy and still vibrant palate with spicy oak, velvety tannins and developing; complexity moving to a savoury finish with a touch of regional leaf and herb.

Best’s Great Western Bin No.0 Shiraz 2010 (Great Western)
The closest of the wines to a warm climate Shiraz but still very much cool climate. Medium weight with eucalypt, smoked oyster and blackberry aromas, gentle and velvety red fruit core with charry coffee-like tannins. Seamless line and structure. Speaks of the Great Western region but with more finesse.

Bird in Hand Nest Egg Shiraz 2009 (Adelaide Hills)
An absolutely delightful wine but had the Panel questioning whether it really represented cool climate Shiraz. Full to medium-bodied with a raspberry fruit spectrum, well balanced, with an elegant line and length, and coffee-licorice tannins.

Treasury Wine Estates Seppelt St Peters Shiraz 2008 (Grampians)
Has all the cool climate characteristics – quite a restrained nose with red currant fruit. Ripe and intense but with a seamless palate and elegant line and length. The coffee-like tannins were a bit furry but balanced with toasty oak. Will benefit from age and would be perfect with Wagyu beef or a Guiness beef pie.

Brindabella Hills Reserve Shiraz 2008 (Canberra District)
Full, dense red in the glass. Very fragrant, lifted nose with clean red fruits and spice. Seamless, ripe and vibrant with a youthful, spicy palate and layers of savoury richness. Vibrant balancing acidity and cedary oak in support.

Wicks Estate Wines Shiraz 2010 (Adelaide Hills)

Not all the hallmarks of cool climate Shiraz but an excellent wine none-the-less. Delightful plummy nose with leafy lift, sweet and ripe palate with smoked oyster bottle age supported by soft tannins. But the highlight was the acidity – so alive and vibrant which gives it a great line and length.

Helen’s Hill Single Vineyard Syrah 2010 (Yarra Valley)
Dense, medium red colour. Lifted, dense black fruits and wet earth. Big, rich and plush with lovely tannin depth and a robust structure. Quite a fruit-driven palate with a juicy core of dark fruits, zesty acidity and powerful tannins on the long finish. A keeper.

Baillieu Vineyard Shiraz 2009 (Mornington Peninsula)
A fragrant nose with violets and some peppery spice. Excellent structure with lots of secondary characters, a great mouth feel and a divine cedary length. 

Moorilla Estate Muse Series St Matthias Syrah 2010 (Tasmania) 
Vibrant medium to full red in the glass. Beautiful nose with spicy black fruit and a sweaty, slightly funky appeal. Very full-bodied and savoury palate with stacks of dark fruits, terroir-driven chalk, mineral and earth. Very high acidity and firm tannins will ensure a long life – one for the cellar. A very honest, unique and soulful wine. 

West Cape Howe Mount Trio Shiraz 2010 (Great Southern)
Very delicate nose with blueberry spice lift. Intense blueberry fruit great mid-weight palate, rich, spicy and elegant but the acid was a touch too jarring which would indicate it would reward the patient drinker with some time in the cellar. 

Seville Estate Shiraz 2010 (Yarra Valley)
A quintessential cool climate Shiraz. Dense in the glass with cola, vanilla and black pepper on the nose. Fresh fruit and intense spice and pepper palate, elegant mouth-feel with superb integrated oak. Real aging potential. 

Geoff Hardy Wines K1 Gold Label 2008 (Adelaide Hills)
Borderline cool climate characters but undoubtedly a lovely wine. Bright red in the glass with youthful aromas of bright plum, raspberry and just a hint of cassis. A layered palate with ripe raspberry and nectarine fruit core, seamless line and length supported by a cedar background.

Giant Steps Innocent Bystander Syrah 2010 (Victoria – Multi)
Lifted blackcurrant on the nose and still so fresh and young but very nicely balanced. Blueberries with excellent texture, slightly grainy tannins but fine integrated oak with a long finish. 

Paringa Estate Shiraz 2008 (Mornington Peninsula)
Dense in the glass with a lovely nose of Moroccan spice. For an 08 it amazed the Panel with its fresh blueberry characters, good length and tannins. As with most of these wines it had a superb acid structure that carries the oak and sweet blackcurrant fruit.

Punt Road Napoleone Vineyards Shiraz 2008 (Yarra Valley)
Good bright colours in the glass, medium-bodied with still youthful developed cassis, soy sauce and cola characters. Soft and plush with a lovely palate. Over time it may fall over, so this is a real drink now proposition.